Blog

  • Cosmopolitan 2016

    This is an archive page

    archive page

     

    6th August 2016

    Leicester’s Cosmopolitan Carnival

    2016

    [Originally published in Arts in Leicester Magazine in 2016]

    Coming up in August

    Cosmopolitan Arts presents – Leicester’s Cosmopolitan Carnival
    on Saturday 27th August 2016 – from 2.00 pm to 9.30 pm
    Leicester City Centre: Jubilee Square, High Street, Clock Tower, Humberstone Gate and BBC Radio Leicester.

    The Cosmopolitan Carnival arts festival is taking over the city centre hosting an impressive line up of live music, dance and art.

    Calvin Jeffrey in 2010
    Photograph: by Harjinder Ohbi

    BBC Radio Leicester’s Kevin Ncube and Toni Finney, will compere the main stage in Jubilee Square. Artists include Leicester’s very own The Brandy Thieves, national awarding winning rapper Curtis Clacey, The Orator, UG and the world’s best DJ Jon 1st DMC will be performing an exciting collaboration, rhythmic Afrobeats by Afro-Kubanza, rising soulful star Dominique Brody will be singing, Jesse Wright will wow the crowd with her amazing voice, “Britain’s Got Reggae” stars from across the country will be performing.

    London-based band Code Ninety will inject to pop music element to the stage, soothing gospel music from Kaine Mass Choir and the fabulous Illusive Quartet will perform stylish jazz.

    A range of free arts workshops will be available including Chinese calligraphy, origami and dragon making and lantern making plus much more.

    There will also be a grand finale performance “Cosmocular” in Jubilee Square 8.30pm – 9.30pm, conceived, project managed and artistically directed by Amanda Leandro of Cosmopolitan Arts. This dazzling performance will involve a fantastic large-scale film projection piece by Amanda Leandro, French and English pyrotechnic performances by Pyrox and Select Dance, beautiful lanterns and giant puppets from Same Sky, an amazing live music performance created by Lead Composer & Music Director Richard Everitt and Co-composed by John Berkavitch, Carol Leeming and Miranda Booth.

    Astounding spoken word from Leicester’s best wordsmith  John Berkavitch and spectacular vocals from Carol Leeming, of which both have specially written new pieces of work for this performance.

    The ensemble includes the best musicians from Leicester: Will Todd from By The Rivers will be playing bass, the highly acclaimed pianist Mike Sole, skillful drummer Malcolm D’Sa, well known jazz saxophonist Marcus Joseph, heavenly harp by Miranda Booth, exceptional tabla by Hari Trivedi and awesome trumpet by Julie Maxwell.

    This dazzling and spectacular performance is a unique one off experience, showcasing Leicester’s most talented artists along side national and international artists, this is one not to be missed!

    There will be a stage at the Clock Tower compered by well known comedienne Kirsty Munro, hosting a vast array of cultural music, comedy and spoken word, including: Euphoria a seven piece Chinese folk group, Hari Trivedi will perform amazing Tabla and Sitar music, Ian Hall and Lindsay Warnes-Carroll will bring side splitting comedy to the event, The Orator Rhetoric Literary Society Poetry will be present wonderful spoken word, from London AOA will perform a unique blend of hip-hop enthused songs, Billy and Jody’s acoustic experience will inject some fun to the event, Calvin Jeffrey and Deven Stuart will both sing songs that will lift people’s spirits and Mr Shay livens up the crowd with some MC’ing.

    On the High Street, there will be an exciting blend of activities and performances, including an amazing dance performance area hosting every imaginable genre of dance. There will be a humorous street theatre performance, an African drumming workshop and activities from Talent Match.

    On Humberstone Gate, there will be a funky open-top bus stage with live reggae and acoustic music and a range of free arts activities, hosted by “The Drinks Bus” and “Britain’s Got Reggae”. There will an art gallery in BBC Radio Leicester and lots of free arts workshops including a DJ master class with Jon 1st, DMC World Champion 2013.

    This exciting FREE event has something for everyone and is one not to be missed.

  • Ancona 4

    Chapter 3. Nights on the Adriatic.

    Part of my novel The Road to Ancona.

    At 5 pm they changed to a bigger coach for the last leg of their journey. Soon after, the coach crossed the Swiss border into Italy and the rain stopped. Looking back at Switzerland, as the coach navigated a loop in the road, Michael could see dark clouds hanging low over the mountains. In front of them, the southern sky was bright and clear. Every time the coach neared a lake, Chico gave a well-rehearsed speech about it, in English, coloured by his heavy accent.

    ‘… and on our left is Como. Twenty-two miles long and one thousand, three hundred and twenty feet deep.’

    The coach arrived on the motorway to Milan. ‘Now we enter the autostrada del sol,’ Chico the tour guide announced with an air of satisfaction. He went on to explain that it meant ‘the motorway to the sun’ and the coach passengers gave a weak cheer. As the luxury road-liner glided across the flat and featureless plains of northern Italy, the light faded and the sky dimmed to a dark, foreboding grey. On either side of the road, the scene was occasionally lit by flashes of lightning. They passed through the outskirts of Milan and then Bologna, as the last glimmers of daylight gave way to inky night.

    It was well after midnight when the coach entered the small, cluttered resort of Cattolica, on the shores of the Adriatic. The town looked poor and shabby until the coach arrived in the tourist area, where open-air cafés were filled with people wearing brightly coloured shorts and flip-flops and the night was filled with the noise of people enjoying themselves. Michael noticed that there were no pavements at the side of the road, just gravel paths on which people walked; he wondered if the place had drains and sewers. The shabby, smaller buildings, where the locals lived, looked like they had been built in a hurry. In the early hours of the morning, the town was alive with people, its streets bustling with activity.

    Richard was prattling away like an excited schoolboy. ‘This is fantastic. Just look at all those people. Oh, I do love the bright lights. This is just how I thought it would be. Look at all those bars and cafés. Everyone is sitting outside,’ Richard said.

    Arrival in Cattolica.

    The coach came to a halt in the Viale Marconi, outside the Hotel Britannia. The group left the air-conditioned coolness of the coach and stepped into the heavy, humid heat of the Italian night. Most of them were dressed in warm clothing after their visit to the Alps. The first thing that Michael noticed was the smell. The atmosphere of the resort had a distinct tinge to it. As he took his first breaths of Cattolican air, he noticed straight away that it smelt of shit. ‘A smell like this, you would only get at home if some workmen had opened the drains,’ he thought, ‘it smells like they don’t have sewers here.

    The Hotel Britannia would be the base for the two teenage friends over the next two weeks. It was a modern-looking building with balconies at each window and a terrace at the front on which stood tables with coloured umbrellas. To Michael, it was like stepping into a dream. The lights, the sounds, the smells, everything around him crowded in on his senses as Michael looked around, desperately trying to come to terms with where he was. Nothing in the previous sixteen years of his life had prepared him for this. The feeling and atmosphere of that July night grabbed him by the throat, submerging him in an intoxicating cocktail of emotions, a bewildering array of senses. This was his first trip abroad and the first holiday he had taken on his own. Little did he know that the next two weeks would change his life forever.

    The passengers crowded around the back of the coach as the tour guide and the driver pulled out their bags and suitcases. Soon the polished floor of the hotel foyer was littered with an untidy array of luggage. Michael noticed that there was no sign of a carpet anywhere. The lobby of the hotel was laid with polished stone slabs that looked like marble.

    The boys were allocated to room 25. They climbed the stone stairs, heaving their bags slowly up the steps until they reached the second floor. Richard, being well-mannered, knocked on the door before opening it and going in. The large room contained a sea of beds. Stretched out on one of these, were two lanky lads dressed in dark blue denim jeans. ‘Hello. Who are you?’, one of them said in a thick northern accent. The Midlands boys were standing with their heavy suitcases and some hesitant moments of silence passed before Richard said, ‘We’re your roommates for tonight. My name is Richard and this is Michael.’ Richard stepped over to the nearest bed and dumped his suitcase on it, thus marking it as his territory. The two lanky lads looked at each other.

    ‘Well, I’ve never seen so many beds in a room before,’ Richard exclaimed in a jovial tone of voice. He started to unpack his case.

    ‘So you’re sleeping in here too?’, one of the northern lads asked with a note of surprise.

    ‘Well, that’s what the rep told us,’ Richard said, ‘he made it seem like everything was well organised, all sorted out in advance. He offered us free bottles of wine if we agreed to share a room. Well, we had asked for a twin but apparently the hotel is over-booked, so he told us.’

    One of the northern lads asked ‘Who is this rep?’ Richard explained that he was called Chico and he had been in the foyer allocating people to their rooms. ‘Oh! That explains a lot,’ the other northern lad remarked, cryptically.

    Michael edged himself between two of the beds, sidling like a crab between the cramped furnishings. While the boys busied themselves with their bags, the two northern lads remained on their bed. They watched the new arrivals as they unpacked but said nothing. Richard began to question them. His questions – of more than twenty words – resulted in two-word answers. Compared to his effervescent personality, the two lads from Manchester presented a rather sullen demeanour. It emerged, from the somewhat stilted replies they gave, that they had arrived two days earlier on another Galaxy Tours bus. No one had said anything to them about sharing a room. They were simply billeted to room 25. When they booked they also had requested a twin-bedded room.

    Mancunians

    The two Mancunians offered little information about themselves at first. Richard did manage to find out their names and ages. They told him Nick was 17 and Dave was 18 and they lived in Manchester. They offered little more by way of information; they liked to get to know someone before sharing personal details with them. Richard regarded them as being straight-laced working-class youths. Michael decided that Nick had a very dry sense of humour; he would sometimes come out with statements of a humorous nature, which he spoke without any facial expression and which only seemed funny if you thought about them. The northerners both disliked “foreign food” and preferred the fish and chips at Mario’s to the dinners served in the Britannia. At first, they missed the kind of beer they were used to but after a while, they developed a liking for lager and were even determined to drink it when they got home.

    Like Michael, the two northerners had never been abroad before, so they assumed that such arrangements were perfectly normal. The northern lads’ main concern was that the boys had been promised an alcoholic bribe whilst they had not. This realisation drove them from their bed and down the stairs to search for this man called Chico.

    That cluttered room and those strange northern lads were to become icons of the holiday for the two teenagers from the Midlands during their stay at the small hotel near the seafront. But it was not the lads who would make an impact on the boys; it was the girls. The two sixteen-year-olds had never been on holiday together before; they had been at school together in their Midlands home town and, when they left school and got jobs, they remained firm friends. It was their new-found income that had inspired them to book themselves on to one of the package holidays they had seen in the coloured brochures on a visit to the local travel agency. Now they were in the first big adventure of their young lives; hundreds of miles away from their parents in a foreign country where people spoke a different language and ate food they had never known before. The previous sixteen years of their lives had not prepared them in any way for the experiences that lay ahead of them.

    Having finished unpacking, Michael said, ‘Richard. There are only three beds in here. That double one and these two singles.’

    ‘Very observant Michael.’

    ‘So, are those two lads going to sleep in that bed together?’

    ‘It rather looks that way, doesn’t it? Why do you ask? Would you prefer to get in with them?’, Richard replied sarcastically.

    Michael began to formulate a reply to this statement but before he could say anything Richard pulled off his long trousers and put on some smart, white shorts and a T-shirt printed with blue and white stripes. He said, ‘Right, we’re off to the beach. We don’t want to stay in this smelly old bedroom. Come on Michael.’ He had not given his friend time to change before disappearing through the door. They walked down to the foyer. Richard said, ‘Michael! Where are your shorts? You can’t go out wearing long trousers. Did you leave them at home?’ Michael complained that he had not been given time to change before his friend had shot out of the room. Michael said sheepishly, ‘I haven’t got any shorts. I was going to buy some last weekend but I never got around to it. I haven’t worn shorts since I was at primary school.’ Richard simply rolled his eyes and sighed. He said, ‘Tomorrow morning I am taking you to the nearest clothes shop. You can’t walk around in those long trousers and that woollen top.’

    Michael and Richard walked to the nearby beach. Michael, still in his thick, long trousers, felt his legs being throttled by the hot night atmosphere. The heat only accentuated his feeling of exhaustion from the long journey. To him, everything felt so different and strange and yet he also felt exhilarated. He began to feel overwhelmed by the sights and smells of this foreign place. He drifted through the bustling streets like a ghost, seeing everything as if from another dimension. He knew he was here, but in an odd way he was not here. It was just like being in a dream, he thought.

    A buggy ride at night

    Before they reached the beach, the boys found a horse and buggy waiting by the side of the road. ‘Michael, we must go on this,’ Richard said excitedly and, without waiting for a reply, climbed on board. Reluctantly Michael followed him. They were charged five hundred lira each for the short trip around the streets. The horse was used to picking its way through the crowds of people. As they passed the souvenir shops, Michael noticed that everything was priced in thousands of lira. He had not got used to the local currency and regarded it with apprehension. He felt overwhelmed by the heat, the bustle, the strange smells and the unnerving peculiarity of everything around him. The air had a sultry, oppressive feel to it that Michael had never experienced before.

    After their impromptu buggy ride over, the boys came to the broad sandy beach. It was dotted with sunbeds and parasols for the holiday-makers to use (if they were happy to pay for them, which not all of them were.) They strolled down to the water’s edge and removed their shoes and socks. The sea was as placid as a sheet of glass; the water lapped lazily on the soft sand. In the silence of the beach, the noise of the town could be heard in the background. In front of them, the inky black sea merged indistinguishably into the sooty darkness of the starless sky. Flashes of lightning over Yugoslavia occasionally lit the firmament as they paddled along the shoreline, the water lapping gently over their feet. Richard’s babble had subsided; he seemed to have succumbed to the peculiarity of the darkness, where the world appeared like it was on the edge of the universe. Michael knew that he ought to feel happy, like his friend, but in reality, he was exhausted and felt rather sick, an ill-defined nausea that weighed on him and made him feel like he was in some kind of unsettling dream. As they strolled along the deserted shoreline, Michael wanted to hold his friend’s hand, to derive some comfort from their friendship in his moment of anxiety. But he stopped himself. He knew that Richard would jerk his hand away if he tried to grasp it. Despite the emotions that were flooding through him, Michael could find no way of expressing how he felt.

    Back at the hotel, another coachload of holidaymakers arrived, among them a group of teenage girls from the Midlands who were to become the boys’ constant companions during their stay at the resort. Richard and Michael were sitting in the foyer as the new arrivals tumbled in noisily with their bags. While the adults sorted out their rooms, two of the girls sat down near the boys, who had been talking about what they might do over the days ahead but their conversation ended abruptly when Richard turned to the girls and said: ‘Just arrived then?’ With his usual cheery smile.

    ‘Oh! You’re English! I could have sworn you were German. I just said to Kate, ‘Let’s go and sit next to those German lads’ and it turns out you are English,’ Carol said and they all giggled; she asked ‘How long have you been travelling for?’

    Richard replied: ‘Oh, we’ve been stuck on a coach for a week! Next time I am going to fly straight to the resort.’ Richard introduced himself, saying he was travelling without his parents and then asked ‘So, who have you come with?’

    Carol explained that she was with her parents and that Kate was with her aunt and uncle.

    ‘Oh. And this is Michael,’ Richard said, almost forgetting that his friend was with him.

    Richard said ‘I could tell you two were English as soon as you walked in.’ The girls laughed. It was Richard’s manner to say something provocative for the sake of being amusing.

    ‘We have both been abroad before,’ Carol explained. ‘We go on a packaged tour every summer.’

    Carol had recently left school and was hoping for a place at the local art college where she wanted to do a course on painting, art and history. Although she had been to Europe before, this was her first time in Italy. A diminutive girl with short hair, she was thoughtful and caring and was to become Michael’s friend and confidant over their two weeks in the resort.

    Two more girls joined them. Jane and Sandra had arrived with the boys on the earlier coach. They had met Richard and Michael at the hotel in Basel when they had stopped for dinner. The new girls said hello to the boys and pulled over a couple of chairs draping themselves over the arms. They spoke to the newly arrived girls. ‘Hello. I’m Jane and this is Sandra. It’s our first time in Italy. We’ve been here for less than a day and we like it already. Something tells me that the next two weeks are going to be one long party.’

    ‘Have you come with your parents?’, Kate asked.

    ‘No, we are both travelling alone this year. We persuaded our parents to let us go without them this year,’ Jane explained.

    With her short curly blond hair and set of dangly gold earrings, Michael studied seventeen-year-old Jane as though she was a character in a novel. She was great fun to be with but inclined to be rather shallow. She was never serious about anything; a conversation with her was an endless round of jokes and barbed comments about other people. To her, life was just one long party. Michael regarded her as being typical of the girls who were teenagers at that time. The kind he had seen in films and television programmes. She loved pop music and film stars and was always talking about celebrities, even though she had never met any but she was an avid reader of the magazines that were written for her age group. These magazines were the source of all she knew and cared about. Her bible was Jackie magazine; from its pages, she gathered everything she wanted to know and believed every word that was in it.

    Sandra was rather plain in appearance, quieter but with a confident demeanour; her straight brown hair was carefully combed and covered one side of her face and she wore a simple blue dress, the kind Michael called a ‘sack dress.’ The two girls gave the impression of being modern teenagers. Michael and Richard had met Jane and Sandra at the Royal Hotel in Basel, just after their arrival in Switzerland. They had sat together at dinner.

    ‘What’s Cattolica like then, Richard?’, Sandra asked.

    ‘Well it’s very different from England,’ Richard replied with a grin.

    ‘I should hope so too,’ Kate remarked. ‘What’s the beach like?’

    ‘Sand and water,’ Richard responded cheerily.

    ‘Sounds hopeful then,’ Kate replied.

    The teenagers got to know each other that night; they would form a group of English holidaymakers who spent a lot of time together, while they were in Cattolica. Sixteen-year-old Kate was a vivacious girl, although at times she could be coarse and rude. She was one of the stronger personalities amongst the group of girls from the Midlands. Her party had arrived at the Britannia earlier on and she quickly made friends with Carol. Kate was on holiday with her aunt and uncle; her father had died a few years earlier and her mother had to stay at home to work, to make ends meet.

    Sandra (just turned seventeen) had been abroad before, with her parents but this time they allowed her to go on her own provided she stuck close to Jane. Her mum and dad had made her promise that she would behave herself. This she achieved until she met Giovanni; that is when her normal reserve and caution evaporated and she suddenly discovered a sense of adventure.

    Eating out

    The group went into the hotel restaurant for a very late dinner. The staff were used to feeding newly arrived parties in the early hours of the morning. Tables and chairs were set out in uniform rows along the sides of the dining room with its polished stone floor. Each of the tables was set with four chairs and covered with a white tablecloth. The metal-framed chairs were of a contemporary Italian design and had oval-shaped backrests made of wood. Stainless steel cutlery, white napkins and wine glasses had been carefully laid out at each cover and on the tables were set small glass pots each with a single fresh flower. Huge bowls were placed in front of the diners, into which waitresses ladled large quantities of soup. Despite the summer heat, holidaymakers were invariably served hot soup for their starters. The watery concoction contained fragments of vegetables of an indeterminate origin, although some pieces were recognisable as celery.

    This was followed by the usual roast chicken portions and boiled potatoes; the guests had to serve themselves from trays that had been waiting for some time under the infrared lamps of the servery. Richard and Michael sat at a table with Kate and Carol. They wanted to get to know the new girls. They talked about the journey from Switzerland and asked each other what they had seen of the resort so far. Richard told them about the ride in the horse and buggy and the stroll along the beach. Michael told them about being in a blizzard on the St. Gotthard pass.

    After their meal, the holidaymakers gathered in the hotel bar to chat and relax. The bar had shelves of bottles lined up in neat rows. At the back, there was a coffee machine. Low armchairs had been placed around coffee tables on ornately patterned rugs and pots of large plants were positioned around the room. The room looked very modern, suggesting that the newly opened hotel wanted to convey a contemporary ambience to its guests.

    The boys eventually went to bed, well after 3 am. Michael got into his bed and Richard turned off the lights before getting into his. They lay in their beds and pulled the duvets over them but the heat was oppressive and they soon had to throw them off. The northern lads were already in the double bed underneath a large duvet; they kept whispering to each other and sniggering and rustling the covers.

    In the darkness, Michael could hear them and wondered what they were doing. He was suspicious about what they were up to. To him, northerners were a strange breed who spoke with funny accents and appeared blunt and crude in their manners. He could not understand why the two of them were in the same bed together. He put it down to them being from a poor northern town where siblings were made to share a bed even when they were older. They had given only their first names; Michael wondered if they were brothers. He eventually fell asleep but his dreams were full of foreboding and nightmarish images of being lost in strange places and wandering through large complex buildings unable to find his way out and always feeling that he was late for something.

    Next: The Streets of Cattolica.

    Go to the home page for The Road to Ancona.

  • Ancona 3

    Chapter 2: In Frohsinn’s Gasthaus.

    Part of my novel The Road to Ancona.

    Go to the home page for The Road to Ancona.

    Between Basel and the Alps, it rained continuously. The darkness of the encroaching night was accentuated by the overcast, dismal sky. As the coach sped along, Michael saw strange buildings with peculiar features – the odd domed shape of a Swiss church, the characteristic gable end of a house with carved wooden eaves and he would make rough sketches of these in his notebook. Eventually, darkness obscured the passing scenery and the world became only the narrow strips of dimly lit towns and villages through which they sped. When they were gliding through the countryside, the coach windows were sheets of black.

    The coach party arrived in the small Swiss village of Erstfeld and the travellers were allocated to a variety of accommodations. Richard and Michael were sent to Frohsinn’s Gasthaus, near to the railway station. In the pitch blackness, they could see little of the village around them on the short walk from the coach to the front door of the hotel. There were no street lamps and their way was lit only by the light coming from the buildings by which they passed. They arrived at the Gasthaus; the small room they entered was full of local character and Michael noticed how spotlessly clean everything was. Wooden tables, each with ornately carved chairs, were set in neat rows. Michael later noted in his book that both the town and the hotel were ‘absolutely gorgeous.’ He thought Frohsinn’s had ‘loads of character.’ The boys ordered glasses of lager from the bar, costing one Swiss franc each. Lager was not something they had ever tasted back in England. They talked about the journey and had a few words with their fellow travellers. It was their first night away from England and they felt tired from the long journey and the excitement of the new experiences they were having.

    At the reception desk, they purchased some postcards with pictures of the local area. Their bedroom was small; it had a shower that provided lashings of hot water and the two wooden beds were made up with large soft pillows and covered in duvets. Michael had never seen a duvet before; to him, it was an Eiderdown, the kind of thing he had on his bed at home but he missed the sheets and blankets he was used to. Michael wanted to talk but Richard was too tired and put the light out. The room was plunged into a darkness that was absolute. It was so silent, that Michael could hear his blood pumping through his veins; he soon slipped into a heavy, restless sleep.

    The second day

    Day two. The morning came – and with it wondrous light. Michael opened his eyes; the light that filtered through the thin orange curtains filled the room with a rich glow. There was no sound. Richard was still asleep in the bed beside his. He lay awake for some time before getting out of bed and drawing open the curtains. His eyes were greeted with an amazing sight: a vast mountainside encrusted with dark green pine trees around which swirled wisps of white mist. Michael stood looking at the view outside, lost in awe. He had never seen anything like this, in his short life.

    The grandeur of the alpine scenery and the picturesque houses of the village, set below the soaring, pine-covered mountainsides, swathed in trailing bands and rolling vapours of mist, stunned Michael. The postcard he had bought the night before showed that the village was set in a valley through which a narrow river wound its way. He saw a small white church with a domed tower, the Jagdmattkapelle or Chapel of Grace, which had survived since mediaeval times according to his itinerary notes. The mountains led to the Schlossberggletscher glacier. Had they arrived in winter, the place would have been deep in snow but in July most of it had disappeared. A single road snaked its way through the low buildings of the village. Around the jumble of small ornate houses, the mighty mountains stood, cradling the valley in their arms.

    Later that morning, Michael continued to sketch the buildings he saw around him. The contrast with the houses and churches of his Midlands home could not have been greater. The buildings of this Swiss alpine community were full of character, Michael noted in his book, unlike the dull, regimented terraced houses that stood in the flat lands of the Midlands. Never before had he been to a place that had mountains and he could not remember seeing pine trees before, at least not as many as those that wrapped themselves around peaks that towered about the little Swiss village.

    Richard and Michael went down for breakfast at 6 a.m. It was incredibly early for them, used, as they were, to getting up at the more civilised time of eight o’clock. Outside the large window of the restaurant, Michael could see an old woman carrying milk through the light rain in two open pails that hung from a wooden yoke on her shoulders. The boys ate their breakfast of small, segmented rolls served with butter and cherry jam and drank several cups of freshly made coffee. Meagre though it was, by their standards, they agreed it was the best breakfast they had ever tasted. A record player behind the bar broadcast into the room a clumsy mixture of pop songs, mixed with traditional Swiss folk melodies.

    ‘These rolls are fantastic. I’ve never seen anything like them before,’ Michael commented to Richard as they ate. ‘They taste really nice. I wish we could get them at home.’ He looked through the window of the restaurant; the morning light was beginning to reveal the scenery they had missed when they arrived last night. Above the line of quaint buildings, they could see dark green mountainsides rising into the misty white cloud base.

    ‘Just look at those fantastic hills,’ Michael commented. Richard glanced to his left but said nothing; his mouth was full of bread and he was sipping at his coffee cup.

    ‘I’ve only ever seen anything like this on the telly,’ Michael continued. ‘Do you remember when we went to see The Sound of Music, at the Gaumont? That was set in a country like this. Some of the scenes we saw in the film showed maintains just like those outside.’

    ‘Sentimental twaddle,’ was all Richard said in reply. He was determined never to reflect his friend’s enthusiasm for anything. In fact, he had enjoyed the film, though he was not prepared to admit it.

    The boys walked through the village, while they were waiting for the coach to depart. The morning air was motionless and the light rain had stopped. The tops of the high mountains were still shrouded in mist. Michael could see duvets hanging over the sills of windows, to air. This was not something that English people ever did with their Eiderdowns, he thought. The clouds lifted and the village became bathed in soft morning sunlight. Michael was very taken with the small alpine village; it was, he thought, full of character and atmosphere and he loved its fresh, clean appearance. But most of all he was awestruck by the mountains and their pine-clad forests, soaring above his head.

    Towards the Alps

    Their coach left Erstfeld at 7:35 a.m. Michael made a note of this. He liked the little Swiss village and would loved to have stayed there longer. He busied himself with writing a few lines of poetry:

    The morning came and with it wondrous sights
    revealing, through our window, such a world
    to fill the soul with awe and deep delights;
    for, standing there before us, cloud enfurled
    were huge, majestic giants of earth’s crust:
    great walls of forest-laden rock once born
    by mighty forces that like waves had thrust
    them to the clouds, in some primeval dawn.

    They reached the Saint Gotthard Pass at around midday, after twenty kilometres of travel from Erstfeld. Michael noticed that the road surface was composed of tiny granite blocks arranged in fan-like patterns. He could see streams running with water that was deep green in colour. They climbed the winding pass towards its summit. The streams that were green, lower down, now gave way to waters that were crystal clear. The rocks were covered in patches of green and orange lichen, Michael noted in his book. The coach climbed higher and higher towards the summit.

    Even though it was the middle of July, there was a blizzard as they climbed towards the upper reaches of the pass. The hillsides were covered in snow and the air was full of mist. Michael was excited at seeing snow during the height of summer. Cars were queueing to get through and many turned back, fearing that they would be stuck in the snowstorm if they continued. The coach driver said he had seen nothing like it in twenty years. The blizzard was forming deep drifts in gullies and ravines beside the road. Richard put on his sunglasses to protect his eyes from the glare. At one point the driver was debating with the tour guide whether they should turn back.

    At the summit of the pass (six thousand, five hundred feet according to the tour guide’s announcement), the coach stopped at a typically Swiss-style wooden chalet, a layer of snow piled high on its pointed roof. The holiday-makers left the warmth of the coach to have coffee and buy souvenirs. Michael purchased a small triangular pennant, embossed with the Swiss flag and the words ‘St. Gotthard Pass.’ He left his friend, who was talking to the other travellers and walked around admiring the scenery. In places, the snow was two feet thick and had been wafted into even deeper drifts in the more sheltered corners.

    Down to the Adriatic

    It was not long before the coach was snaking its way round the hairpin bends of the pass on the southern side. They descended out of the snow and everything was clear, just as it had been in the lower reaches of the other side. Through the window, Michael could see the road below, like a coil of rope looping contortedly down the side of the mountain. As the coach turned the tight corners, its front end hung precariously over the edge of the road. To Michael, it looked like they were about to plunge into the ravine below. Leaving the pass behind them, they arrived on the motorway and were soon gliding along it at speed. As they headed towards Lugano, a furious thunderstorm broke out. At 3 p.m. the coach stopped for dinner at a hotel beside the lake. Michael was served with a bowl of soup that contained vegetable matter of indeterminate origins. This was followed by a frugal helping of meat with a small serving of boiled potatoes. Michael said ‘What kind of animal do you think this meat comes from?’

    Richard replied, ‘Probably one of the goats we saw on the way here.’

    The boys were given a dessert – a slice of tinned pineapple garnished with a glacé cherry. Michael was so disappointed with the dinner that he spent the last of his Swiss francs on a cigar.

    A new tour guide joined the party. Chico was to be the rep for Galaxy Tours while they were in the resort. He crossed over to the table at which the boys were sitting and settled himself into one of the vacant chairs. ‘Hello boys,’ he said with his heavy Italian accent. ‘Not long now and we will be arriving in Cattolica. You will love Cattolica. We will stay at very nice hotel. The Britannia. Very good for English. The resort of Cattolica is on the Adriatic coast…’

    Richard interrupted what would have been a rehearsed monologue; he asked ‘I thought we were staying at a pensioné?’ ‘Yes of course’ Chico replied. ‘The pensioné Britannia. A very nice small hotel. I know the manager well. Signor Ricardo. He is good friend of mine. Mi scusi, I have favour to ask you. In return I will offer you both something very nice.’ Richard and Michael looked at each other, rather apprehensively.

    Chico continued, ‘Just for tonight, would you be willing to share room with two other boys? Nice English boys – your own age. It will make you new friends. And, in return, I give you each free bottle of wine – for your troubles. This is for only one night. Tomorrow one of the tours will depart and this will free up rooms.’

    Richard was immediately seduced by the offer of free wine. Michael was less than impressed. Although he said nothing, he thought ‘How on earth am I going to sleep – in a room with three other people, two of whom I don’t even know – when for sixteen years I have always slept on my own. Will we all have to get undressed in front of each other? Will they all snore? What happens if I want to go to bed early and they want to stay up? Or vice versa?’ Before Michael could comment on Chico’s proposal, Richard said, ‘That’s OK Chico. We don’t mind.’ The ever-cheery and helpful Richard did not think of asking his friend’s opinion on this matter before agreeing to the rep’s ‘offer.’ Chico jumped up from his chair and leaned over the boys. ‘Grazia bambinos. I make sure I give you nice wine.’ And with that, he left.

    ‘Are you sure this is going to be alright, Richard?’

    ‘Oh don’t worry so much Michael. It will be fun to have some company. We might make some new friends. We want to make new friends while we are on holiday, don’t we? It will only be for one night. We can get drunk at the expense of Galaxy Tours. I bet I can persuade him to give us more than two bottles. You know what those reps are like.’

    Northern Lads

    The very first time they met the two northern lads, was when Michael and Richard walked into the room at the Britannia on the first night of their stay. It was clear that the two northerners were not natural talkers. When they did speak it was in short sentences, using only simple words. Michael thought about this. He wondered why they were so taciturn. He had heard them talking to each other, both in the hotel room and in the lounge, and noticed that they talked to each other a lot more than when he was present. He couldn’t understand a lot of what he overheard; they talked with heavy accents and used a lot of local expressions he was not familiar with. But what he noticed was that they actually talked as much as anyone else – between themselves. Michael wrote:

    People from the Midlands talk a lot. They say a lot more than they need to; it’s their way. Northerners don’t see the need to talk all the time, at least, if Dave and Nick are anything to go by. Most of the people on our coach party are from the Midlands. Only Dave and Nick come from another city. Perhaps they booked late and this was the only flight available. They don’t talk much in front of other people. Why is this? Are they a bit shy? When they do speak they are very direct in what they say. People from the Midlands are careful what they say and the way they say it. But those lads just say whatever comes into their heads without caring much what effect it might have. In a way, I wish I could be like them. Simple in their ways.

    The party got back on the coach for their Journey to Italy. They left the area of the lakes and headed south through the northern mainland.

    Next: Nights on the Adriatic.

    Go to the home page for The Road to Ancona

  • Ancona 2

    Chapter 1 The adventure begins.

    Part of my novel The Road to Ancona.

    Go to the home page for The Road to Ancona.

    The two-hour journey to London seemed to take all day. On the train, Michael sat opposite Richard, writing in his notebook. He scribbled away, determined to record every minute of the journey. Michael did not know why he had developed a compulsion to write. Neither of his parents were particularly well-educated and they kept very few books in the house. The only things they read were newspapers and that was mainly for the sports news. Michael knew no one who had written anything other than a letter to a relative or a complaint to some company or the Council. Writing was not something that people – in his world – ever did, other than when they had to. For Michael, however, writing was instinctive, a compulsion. He could not explain why he did it; he knew only that he had to. Michael had packed a supply of notebooks and ballpoint pens. Richard regarded the constant scribbling with disdain. He thought it was just one of Michael’s silly quirks. As far as Richard was concerned, people from their backgrounds did not become writers. It was just not done. Being a writer was reserved for posh people who lived in big houses in the countryside or in elegant flats in London. It was not an activity of working people.

    ‘I don’t know why you keep writing notes all the time,’ Richard commented, ‘we’ll remember everything about the trip easily enough. And, anyway what are you going to do with all these notes?’

    ‘I’ll keep them forever,’ Michael replied, ‘they will be a reminder of my first big adventure in life and I might even turn them into a book.’

    Occasionally Michael would badger Richard into reading some of his notes. He sometimes wrote pieces of which he was particularly proud and wanted to hear Richard’s reactions but his friend’s usual response was to frown, wrinkle his nose and then comment, disdainfully, ‘Yes, Michael.’ Michael and Richard had been close friends since they were at secondary school. They were two very different people. Richard was good-looking, had a bright and bubbly personality and was very people-oriented. Michael, on the other hand, was a plain-looking teenager, somewhat shy and decidedly introverted; socially, he was inclined to be awkward.

    Working-class boys

    Both of them often displayed their working-class origins by being rather uncouth in their manners. They saw a lot of each other and their friendship worked because Michael admired Richard; he was everything that Michael was not. Richard had a habit of putting his friend down; secretly he thought Michael was a bit of an intellectual but he would never say anything good about him to others. He spent time with Michael because he was easily able to outwit him and he regarded him as being rather dim. But he knew how much Michael admired him and that was a bonus. They were complete opposites and that is what attracted them to each other.

    As their train carried them through the countryside, Michael wrote a little thumbnail sketch of his best friend. Richard looked out of the window, watching the fields and trees glide past, with an expressionless look on his face. When Michael had finished the literary sketch, he handed the notepad to Richard, who read it quickly. This time, instead of the usual frown and raising of the eyebrows, a smile broke out on his face. His expression looked like that of someone who had just seen a rather bad sketch of himself. He handed the notepad back to Michael without saying anything. Michael had written:

    he reads my lines in silence while his face
    expresses what he feels about the words;
    perplexities that corrugate his brow
    give way to smiles that blossom from his lips.

    Michael did not always write in iambic pentameters but it was something he was learning to do and used it for moments that were, to him, of special importance. He had been reading Wordsworth’s poems for an exam in English Literature and learned how to scan lines of poetry. With this short piece, he had correctly predicted Richard’s reaction and had portrayed his expression before it had happened; he was quite proud of that.

    It was the middle of July and the sky was overcast, as the boys headed towards the sunshine of the Mediterranean. Having arrived at the London railway terminus, they made their way to the coach station and caught their connection to the airport. It was late in the afternoon when they arrived at Manston aerodrome, not far from the Kent coast. The ‘airport’ (as it was described in their travel brochure) was a large field with some rather crude buildings that formed the departure ‘lounge’, a rather shabby wooden hut laid out with square, Formica-topped tables and chairs with metal legs. It used to be an RAF station where fighter planes operated during the war. After a cold lunch, provided by the tour operator, the group, who had booked on to the package tour, walked across the wind-swept tarmac to the small Douglas DC4 with its four sets of propellers mounted on the wings. For the boys – who had seen huge, sleek jet airliners in the holiday brochure – it was something of a let down. It was raining. The aircraft creaked and rumbled as it taxied to its starting position, on the single runway, for take-off. It took ages to reach its starting position at the end of the runway. Richard remarked that it felt they had gone halfway back to London. Michael insisted on having the window seat. It was his first flight and he was determined to see as much as he could. The runway was wet and the sky overhead looked dark and ominous. The aircraft stood motionless for what seemed to be an eternity, its engines running but going nowhere. Michael was apprehensive. Richard was having a conversation with a woman across the aisle. He was chattering away merrily, his head turned away from his friend.

    The engines began to roar and the whole aircraft shuddered and then it moved. With increasing speed it accelerated along the runway; suddenly the sound of the engines increased to a frenetic whine and it left the ground. Michael was pressed back into his seat. It was some time before he realised that they were airborne. He looked out of the window and saw the roadway below him with tiny cars travelling along it. Villages, looking like models, passed by. Miniature cows were standing motionless in neat green fields. Suddenly everything went blank; the fields of England disappeared and they were climbing through the cloud base. The Earth had disappeared from view and they were in a strange white world in the sky; as they climbed, the fuselage of the aircraft was set at an upwards angle. Richard was still chatting happily to his new-found friend across the aisle and Michael was left to wonder at what he could see, or not see, from his window.

    Up in the air

    In the blink of an eye, the world outside changed to dazzling blue and the clouds below were a great billowing carpet of whiteness. Hot sunshine fell on Michael’s face through the little round porthole. A smartly dressed stewardess walked down the aisle with a tray of cigarettes. Michael purchased a packet of Rothmans for two shillings and sixpence. Everything seemed to be going well, so Michael took out his notepad and began to scribble; he was determined to capture as much detail as he could of this, the ‘first great adventure’ of his life. As the coast of France appeared, the aircraft hit some turbulence. Through his porthole Michael could see the wings bending and flexing and he felt like he was being lifted up and down as though he was on a roller-coaster. Over the intercom, the captain’s voice, in a rather matter-of-fact tone, requested passengers to fasten their seat belts. Michael was terrified and felt sure they were going to crash and lit a cigarette. Richard, on the other hand, was not bothered by any of this and just kept chatting amiably to the woman opposite.

    Over France, the flight was steady and they were served a meal on a plastic tray that had compartments for each portion of food. In one compartment there were small pieces of chicken covered in a brown sauce, another held boiled potatoes the size of grapes and another held a portion of peas. The stewardesses served white wine in small plastic tumblers. Michael ate it all; he thought about what this trip had cost him and was determined to consume every last penny worth of it.

    They landed at Basel at 6:15 p.m. local time (in his notebook, Michael noted it was spelt ‘Basel’, the same spelling used in the itinerary given to them by the tour operator.) After a smooth landing, the passengers alighted from the aircraft onto the concrete ready for their short walk to the terminal building. For the first time in his life, Michael stepped onto foreign ‘soil’; later in life he watched man setting foot on the moon for the first time and this was, for him, the same experience. It was raining when they had left England and it was still raining in Switzerland. It felt like the same rain and was falling at the same rate. The newly constructed terminal building was modern and spacious, more like the kind they had seen on the television, compared to the grim old shacks they had been through in Kent. After a brief passport check, the group boarded a smart coach for the short journey into the city.

    Arrival in Switzerland

    In Basel, they were given dinner at the Royal Hotel, a large, impressive-looking building. The boys commented how good the food was and were pleased when red wine was served with the meal. Michael had only ever tasted wine at a wedding reception; it was not something they ever drank at home. Michael admired the elegance of the hotel dining room, with its ornate gilded decor, vases of fresh flowers and large, glittering chandeliers.

    Richard was gossiping to a couple of girls who shared the boys’ table. ‘Oh, Richard! Isn’t this wonderful!’ Michael exclaimed, determined to get in on their conversation. ‘It’s so exciting to be away from home and to be travelling in a foreign country. It’s like a dream,’ Michael said. The girls giggled. Richard pulled a face.

    ‘Yes Michael,’ Richard said with a note of sarcasm in his voice. ‘Have some more wine. Say hello to Jane and Sandra.’ Michael nodded at the two girls.

    ‘Are you two staying in Cattolica?’ Richard asked them. Jane replied, ‘Yes, we are. Is that where you are headed? Are you with your parents?’

    Richard said, ‘Yes, we are going to Cattolica but we are on our own. We left the parents at home.’

    The girls giggled. Michael had turned his attention to the menu; he was trying to figure out what was printed on it, having never learnt any foreign language. Richard was a gregarious person; he could easily start a conversation with anyone. Two girls, of his own age, were an easy target for him. He was the kind of young man who appealed to everyone – good-looking, gregarious, bright and cheerful, eager to please and good at chit chat about anything. Michael was the complete opposite – shy, reserved, with a somewhat serious disposition and not accustomed to banter or gossip. It was an odd friendship but somehow it worked. Michael was convinced that Richard talked in his sleep, while he was dreaming about people.

    The party boarded the awaiting coach and by 7 pm they had driven over the Rhine. Michael noticed with interest that the traffic lights were the same colours as they were in England. His main concern was that they were travelling on the wrong side of the road. He noticed that the road markings were painted in orange, unlike the white lines he was used to at home. As he watched the world outside pass by, Michael noticed that the windows of most of the houses had neat wooden shutters. Switzerland, he thought, was a country that was incredibly clean and well-kept, compared to his grubby home town in the Midlands where the streets were full of litter. As he watched the world go by, he felt very strange; it was like being in a dream and yet he knew he was awake but it did not feel like the reality he had been used to in England.

    Next: In Frohsinn’s Gasthaus.

  • Ancona 1

    Ancona 1

    Prologue to my novel The Road to Ancona.

    See the page listing the chapters.

    In early January 1966, Michael staggered out of the travel agents, in his home town, in the Midlands, with an armful of holiday brochures. He had no idea what he was letting himself in for; he had never been abroad before. His best friend, Richard, once went on a school camping trip to Switzerland; it was Richard who talked him into the idea of going on a package holiday. Michael would not have bothered if it had been left up to him. Both of them had finished school last year; they now had jobs and were both earning money for the first time and wanted to get out of their claustrophobic Midlands town and see the world. This was at a time when going on holidays abroad was just beginning to take off. Tour operators were being formed and the holiday industry was booming, as people’s incomes allowed them to choose to go abroad rather than taking their vacations in Skegness, Blackpool, Wales or Morecambe. New jet aircraft were being chartered to cater for the increasing traffic and, in the continental resorts, hotels were being built, in response to the growing demand for beds.

    When Michael visited the small branch office of the travel agents, he saw large piles of brochures stacked all over the shop and marvelled at how so much paper had been printed. All the brochures came out at the same time, in those days, and people had to get their holidays booked as soon as they were delivered because most of the popular choices would be sold out within a couple of weeks. As soon as the brochures arrived people turned up to book; they would choose their resort, their departure dates and then hurry back to the travel agents anxious to know if their choices were still available. By the end of January, most of the popular package deals had gone.

    Michael was enthralled by the whole idea – going to a country in Europe, flying in an aeroplane and staying in a hotel – three things he (and his parents) had never done before. In his small world, he knew of foreign countries only through what he had seen on the television and at the cinema. The teenager had led a sheltered life in a family whose aspirations were decidedly limited. It would be no use, he thought, asking his parents if they were interested in going on a package holiday. They never went on holiday – anywhere – and so, neither had he.

    During the long winter nights of early January, the boys poured over brochures. The coloured pictures of beaches, dazzling hotels and people in bathing costumes excited the boys’ interest, evoking images of glamour and romance. The descriptions of the resorts made them seem like wonderful places. The travel industry had recently started to offer ‘cheap’ packaged holidays and now a wide variety of tour operators were producing these enticing, multi-coloured brochures. On the television, adverts were broadcast every night showing scenes of people on holiday in Spain and Italy. In the cinemas too, advertisements were shown, before the first film came on, extolling the virtues of continental holidays. A lot of people were becoming excited by the glossy, colourful images that bombarded them daily and the prospect of going abroad, they realised, was within their grasp.

    People in England became excited by the wonderful world of travel and the idea of taking their summer holidays in Europe. The people who became most excited by this were the young; the teenagers who had grown up with holidays by the sea in the English resorts. Added to the massive amount of advertising by the booming travel industry, was the growth of unfamiliar foods in the supermarkets: spaghetti, pizza, olive oil, tomato sauces, garlic and a variety of other food products were beginning to line the shelves in the shops and ordinary people were beginning to drink wine, a beverage that was previously regarded as being the preserve of the wealthy.

    Michael was sixteen and he had rarely been outside his home town for more than a few days. Once, he went to stay with an aunt and uncle for a week, in a village a few miles away from where he lived with his parents. For him, that was a huge adventure. He had never flown in an aeroplane before. He had never stayed in a hotel. He did however have a fascination with foreign countries and avidly watched television programmes about travel. His background was fairly impoverished and had been very sheltered. His father worked as an electrical fitter and his mother was waitress. They rarely went out in the evenings and so their earnings, although meagre, allowed them to make ends meet, especially since they would never spend money on ‘fripperies’ like holidays. So now Michael had left school and was earning a little money for himself; he felt grown up, no longer a school boy who had to ask his parents for pocket money. Now, he was independent, had his own income, and could make choices for himself. His friend Richard was in the same position and had passed his exams for the Civil Service and got himself a very respectable position, in the local Tax Office, as a filing clerk.

    The two boys spent hours arguing over which resort they should go to. Several countries were on offer in the budget package brochures, although more than half of the pages, of the more popular tour operators, were devoted to Spain and Italy, France, Switzerland, Germany, Austria and even Tunisia were included. Even when they had chosen a country – Italy – they had the problem of choosing a resort. They were bewildered and confused by the range of options on offer.

    ‘Let’s stay in Rimini,’ Richard suggested, ‘it’s a big resort and there will be lots of people there’.

    Michael was not convinced. ‘Yes but it might be too big; we might just get lost in it. Surely, if we stayed in one of the smaller resorts it would be more interesting and it would be easier to find our way around.’

    ‘Well, if we stayed in a smaller resort near to Rimini, we could always go into town if we wanted to,’ Richard argued.

    ‘It’s a good idea; that way we get the best of both worlds. The prices for the smaller resorts are a lot less than in Rimini. What’s a pensioné?,’ Michael wanted to know, having seen the word in his brochure.

    ‘It’s just a small hotel; like our guest houses,’ Richard replied.

    ‘It wouldn’t be like an English guest house, though, would it? Look, this one has got balconies for every room and it’s newly built.’

    Richard seemed to know what he was talking about. He said, ‘No. I think the small hotels in Italy are totally different; they have bars and even swimming pools. Look at this, it says Cattolica is the smallest of the three resorts on the Adriatic Riviera. It has an intimate air. The beach, although not quite as wide, is more than adequate. This resort is a little less sophisticated than her sisters but there is nothing old-fashioned about her. Now, doesn’t that sound about right for us?’

    ‘What’s a Riviera?, Michael asked.

    Finally, after many hours of discussion they chose the package they wanted: Tour Number AR161 in the Galaxy Tours brochure. The destination was the little town of Cattolica, a few miles south of Rimini on the Adriatic Riviera. Neither of them had ever heard of the resort before but it seemed like it would be the perfect place to spend their holiday. The price was right and the description and coloured photos offered by the brochure made it seem like an exotic Shangri-La. They chose a twin bedded room at the pensioné Britannica. At least, that was what the brochure called it. The price included breakfast and dinner at the hotel. There was no swimming pool but the building was only two minute’s walk from the beach. There were plenty of full-colour photos of the wide sandy beach along which sun loungers and parasols had been arranged in neat rows. The dates they wanted were available – the last two weeks in July. Both of them thought they could get these dates if they booked them in advance. The tour included flights to and from England and Michael was particularly keen on being able to fly rather than crossing the channel in a ferry and then having to go on a long coach trip.

    In the middle of January, the two boys went to the travel agency and booked their holiday. Richard paid the deposit for both of them; his granddad had given him some money to help him do this. He agreed to let Michael pay him back each week when his wages came in. They went home with their booking confirmation sheets. What weighed on Michael’s mind was the cost of the whole thing: £39/10/- each, less deposit. His first pay packet in his new job gave him just £4/12/4d, after tax and national insurance had been deducted. After he had paid his weekly board to his parents, there was little left to play with. He would have to save hard if he was going to have enough money to pay the balance that was due before they left. And he had to pay Richard back for the deposit. He hoped his parents might lend him some money if he was short.

    When Michael arrived home he told his parents of his plans to go on holiday and how much it would cost. His mother said, ‘I don’t know why you want to spend all that money going abroad when there are much cheaper holidays over here. You could go to Morecambe for two weeks for half that amount of money.’

    At least she seemed to understand her son’s desire to go on holiday, now that he had a job and could earn the money to pay for it. ‘Well I’m glad you are going on a group holiday with a lot of other people who can look after you. I would be worried sick if you went on your own,’ his mother said.

    ‘There’s really nothing to worry about mum; the holiday is run by a big company and everything is arranged in advance. There will be a tour guide there to look after us and most of the people in the group will be grown-ups.’

    When the boys were at the travel agents booking their holiday, the counter clerk had gone to some lengths to persuade them to take a holiday in Spain. He did his best to convince them that Spain was the most popular choice for British holiday-makers and that the resorts there were far better equipped than those in Italy. The boys had spent a long time discussing which country they wanted to visit but Michael was interested only in Italy. He knew little of Spanish history and regarded the seaside destinations of the Costa Blanca as being little better than foreign versions of Blackpool or Margate. For Richard, Italy represented something that was cool, beat, stylish and more in keeping with what teenagers wanted, rather than the boring resorts of Spain which were the favoured choices of older people with young children. Even so, there was a hint of glamour about Spain; in had a certain appeal that seemed lacking in Italy, he felt there was a certain romance to the culture and life style and the way it had been organised to suit the tastes of English people. Italy, on the other hand, had a more impressive history, so Michael thought, and that is what tipped the balance for him. The Italian package offered a variety of excursions, including one to Rome. Michael was an avid reader of history books (which he took out from his local public library) and had seen many documentaries on the television about the history of the Roman empire. Italy had an irresistible lure for him that he could not find in Spain.

    Months of waiting followed. Their flight was not until July, so they had plenty of time to dream about the holiday. Both of them talked about it, whenever they met. They would suggest to each other what might happen, who they might meet, what adventures might befall them … and, when Michael was asleep, he had strange dreams about being in a hotel, swimming in a blue sea beside a beach with golden sands, eating unfamiliar food and visiting places that were completely different to the dull, obscurity of his home town. Richard would talk constantly about girls and being free of the constraints of adults, of drinking alcohol, having fun, dancing and staying up long into the night. This was not the kind of lifestyle offered by their well-ordered Midlands town. In their imaginations, being on holiday meant letting go of the constraints and routines of their lives as young workers in a respectable community.

    Michael spent his solitary moments thinking about what a holiday was all about. ‘Why do people go on holiday?,’ he would ask himself, in his periods of contemplation – which were many. Holidays were not part of what his family did. When his parents needed to get rid of him for a while, his mother shipped him off to her sister’s place in the countryside. At the age of 16 he really had no idea what a holiday was. It was an activity that other people did; something he had seen on the television or read about in magazines but to him and his family it was not something that had interested them. To him, the trip to Italy would be as alien as going on a spaceship to Mars. Mentally, he needed to prepare himself for the experience and hence the long hours of daydreaming, trying to work out, in his own mind, what might happen and how he would react to it. He tried to work out how he would feel about being hundreds of miles from home in a foreign country with adults who were complete strangers to him. Food would be provided that he had never tasted before; would he enjoy eating it? Would he be able to sleep in a bed in a hotel? Would he cope with the heat? What would it be like going to the toilet?

    There were a lot of questions going through Michael’s mind and he found it difficult to answer them. It was reassuring that his friend Richard would be with him. If he needed help and comfort, Richard would be there to provide it, he thought. Richard was his best friend; the one person outside of the microcosm of his family who he knew well and could depend on. Most importantly of all, Richard was the same age and came from the same background. Having been to the same school together, both of them were on the same wavelength. More or less. While Michael was dreaming about the mysteries of Roman civilisation, Richard was milking the fact that he was going on a continental holiday. He would boast to his friends that he was being allowed to go on a holiday without his parents. Richard became the centre of attention in the office and at social events. He would babble away prolifically about how modern he was and how he had a penchant for European travel. Exaggeration was something that Richard indulged in with an all-consuming gratification. He was, in many ways, a typical sixties teenager. His main preoccupations in life were fashion, money and sex. Not necessarily in that order but mostly they were his principle motivations in life. He was not particularly into music but he wanted people to think that he was. He would often mention that he owned his own record player and would spend time in record shops browsing the vast array of singles; not because he was that interested in buying them or even listening to them but mainly because he wanted his friends to see him doing it. With Richard, appearances were everything.

    As May turned into June their sense of excitement and anticipation grew. Michael talked about it constantly, especially with his parents, who kept asking questions about this and that and what would happen if … to which he would usually make up replies that were based more on fantasy than fact. Michael paid the balance due on his booking; he had saved really hard but his parents lent him some money to help him out and they waived the rent and board they suggested he should pay. He repaid the deposit he owed to Richard. His parents were concerned that he should not get into debt with other people, even though they did not know Richard’s parents that well. They could not understand why Michael should want to go abroad; they frequently commented it would be much easier and cheaper if he went to an English resort for two weeks. In July the boys counted down the days until the great moment arrived – the day on which they left their home town and headed to Euston station in readiness for the greatest experience of their lives.

    Next: Chapter One. The adventure begins.

  • My Novel

    My Novel

    The Road to Ancona

    I have decided to publish my first novel on this blog. The whole book has now been published [2023.] It will remain on this site for readers to inspect.

    Earlier, I said, “It will appear in instalments from later this month. I have started a section for the novel. There are categories and tags for all the pages. Links to new instalments will be posted below. There will be a post where all the instalments will be listed. I have decided to give the novel the title The Road to Ancona.”

    Here is a list of the chapters which have already been published.

    The Road to Ancona Instalments

    Prologue

    Chapter 1 The Adventure Begins.

    Chapter 2 In Frohsinn’s Gasthaus.

    Chapter 3 Nights on the Adriatic.

    Chapter 4 The Streets of Cattolica.

    Chapter 4 continued: The Welcome Party

    Chapter 4 continued final part : Exploring Cattolica

    Chapter 5 The Mystery of Assisi.

    Chapter 5 Part 2 : The City of Rome

    Chapter 5 part three : The Trevi Fountain

    Chapter 6 Conflict Under the Sun.

    Chapter 7 The Road to Ancona.

    Chapter 8 The Final Days.

    Chapter 9 Return to Switzerland.

    Chapter 10 Back to England.

    Epilogue.

    Articles about this book

    Thoughts about my novel.

  • Posts to like

    Some things you might like

    Here is a selection of posts you might like to read:

    MicrohistoryThe interruptive societyAakash OdedraSwinging SixtiesLanguage and Evolution introducedDoes Writing Have a Future?  Cooking Vegetables

    As you can see, I write about a very broad range of topics.

    Channels

    Some of these topics are being gathered together into channels.

    Here are some of them that have already been set up:

    Channel Family

    Home Page for my Novel.

    Channel for Food

    Channel for Music

    Channel About (me and this website)

    Read my latest poem.

     

  • Archive of home page

    This is an archive copy of most of this blog’s home page that came after the section dealing with 2022

    Go to the current website’s home page. See also the archive of the home page.

    2021

    7th November. I write about the microhistory of everyday life.

    22nd October. An article about the publicity of local music gigs prepared with Carol Leeming.

    This year will be a year of change, as far as this blog is concerned. Over the past few years, I have maintained a number of blogs and it is my intention to rationalise my platforms. I want to have only one blog and publish on it all that has already appeared on other blogs, including the Archive for Arts in Leicester, and Locke Family Tree. [These have now been removed. Some content is available on this website.]

    The object of this consolidation is to run only one website and to reduce the cost associated with having several sites. Progress on this project will take place in 2021 but in doing this I will not delete anything of my work from the Internet.

    As far as the archival Arts in Leicester material is concerned, I will have to decide whether to transfer all of it to this blog or simply list its contents, the original articles being held offline.

    A poem for National Poetry Day 2021

    My Poem Chance is published today on this blog.

    9th October 2021. Poetry using the Decameter. Finity from 1966.

    2020

    Selected highlights of 2020.

    Poetry

    Thursday 1st October. Today is National Poetry Day in the United Kingdom. I am editing my collected anthology of poems volume two. I also wrote a poem to celebrate today and posted it on my Facebook Page.

    5th August. Do not interrupt me while I talk about interruptions and how our society is suffering from a constant flow of them.

    11th June. In this instalment of my series about the Music History of Leicester, I look at the years 2010 and 2011.

    25th March. In my latest article, I look at the years 2007 to 2009 in my series on Leicester’s Music History.

    10th March. I publish the third instalment of my series about Leicester’s Music History.

    7th March. Read my piece about music education in schools.

    Celebrating a previous article: Individuality. 2018.

    February. Published the second instalment of my series. Dealing with the rise of the Internet and its effect on live music.

    January. I have published the first in my planned series of articles about the history of Leicester’s music.

    Read about the series as a whole.

    Read the first instalment.

    Copyright notice relating to his website.

    December 2019

    I publish, for the first time, a poem that dates from 1971. This is the latest version of

    The Masquerade

    also, look at

    other poems of mine.

    History

    Imperial Prince

    Now that I have been given new information by writer Angela Bavidge, I have updated my article about the wreck of the trawler off the Black Dog beach in 1923.

    National Poetry Day 2019

    Thursday 30th October.

    To celebrate the UK’s National Poetry Day, I have revised my latest poem – The Guitarist – and published it on this blog. This replaces the earlier version that previously appeared on that page.

    Later today, I plan to publish some of my pieces from 1964. I have spent recent days transcribing and editing Volume One of my collected anthologies.

    15th September 2019

    Music

    For the rest of this year, I need to finish what I have started. I am beginning to plan my work for 2020. Most of next year’s work will be completing major projects, such as my book about The History of Music in Leicester. I have two novels that are still to be completed and two more that are still at the envisioning stage. I also want to finish my anthology of poems from the earliest time to the present day. It will be a busy year. But then, all years are busy, these days.

    Leicester

    Today marked the launch of the book An Attempt at Exhausting a Place in Leicester, edited by Jon Wilks. This contains a piece written by me about the history of live music in Leicester.

    23rd August

    I look at the future of written language.

    Does writing have a future?

    24th July

    Climate change

    Work in progress. Today I am writing about climate change. Being a writer, that is the one thing I can do to respond to what the future looks like. Earlier this year, I made a commitment to write about global warming and now I am doing just that.

    8th July

    I write the first-ever history of Regent Jazz in Leicester.

    8th June

    Spoken word

    Today I launch my audio page. As yet experimental, the test tracks are to assess the viability of the idea.

    Trevor’s audio-blog.

    Housing

    Rethinking Approaches to Housing.

    See what has recently been published on this site, use our latest page.

    Poetry

    I have created a new section for my Poetry.

    View this section by going to the Poetry home page.

    Read Twelve Trees and Poetry.

    Music

    If you want to read what I have written about music, start here

    Previously, on Housing policy

    Housing Approaches to Policy March 2016 complete work reset online version 2018 click to download a copy in PDF format.

    See the contents of this book

    All the rest

    Go to the Contents Page

    See a list of articles published on this blog

    About

    About this blog

    About Trevor Locke

    Oh!   Where has all the rest gone?

    I have shortened this, the front page, of my website.

    To see the sections that were removed, go to Archived Pages.

    Other websites by Trevor Locke

    I used to edit an online magazine called Arts in Leicestershire. This site is being dicontinued in July 2023.

    I once publishd a magazine called Music in Leicester. This has continued under the editorship of my colleage Kevin Gaughan.

    Social media

    Following Trevor Locke on Facebook

    Copyright notice relating to his website.

  • Cooking vegetables

    Apologies to readers who have been following this series about cooking. I have been focusing on publishing my novel and so have not worked on my posts about food and cooking. I will pick up this series again once I have finished publishing my novel. TGL 23rd January.

    12th November 2022.

    In this article, I look at ways in which raw or frozen vegetables can be prepared for the table.

    If cooking raw vegetables, we tend to boil things like potatoes, carrots, celery, and so on, but there are other ways to cook them. If you want to heat one item in the oven – such as a ready-made pie – you could also put in a tray of mixed vegetables. There is no point in heating a whole oven just for one small item, such as one pie. You could use any of the following: onions, carrots, sliced celery, parsnips, sweet potatoes, mushroom, cherry tomatoes, pieces of cauliflower – in fact, whatever you happen to have in stock. After chopping the vegetables into bite-sized pieces, sprinkle them with oil. I include potatoes but I first give them three sessions of two minutes in the microwave to soften them before they go into the oven. Or boil them for not more than ten minutes, drain and cover with oil. That softens them and they cook more quickly. Cut the vegetables into bite-sized pieces, toss in one or two tablespoons of suitable oil (vegetable or olive oil) and put into a baking tray. Once mixed with the oil, add a little salt and perhaps black pepper and even a pinch of Paprika as seasoning.

    Bake

    You can heat the pie and the vegetables for the same length of time (about thirty minutes) at around 200 centigrade. A tasty alternative to boiling. I also keep beetroot which I buy ready-cooked and preserve in a jar of vinegar. This is a good addition to a bowl of salad. I have even used beetroot as an ingredient in cakes – with very satisfying results. Jars of beetroot in vinegar are sold in some supermarkets but I much prefer to make my own. Beetroot is a tasty and versatile root vegetable. Greens are much more difficult to work with because they are not suitable for freezing unless they have first been cooked. This is usually done by boiling, then draining and allowing to cool. I do however cook my own prawn crackers when I have the deep-fat fryer on. These are small wax-like disks that swell up when put into the hot oil. Preparing these at home is much cheaper than buying them ready-made. They make a good accompaniment to Chinese dishes but also provide a tasty snack in place of crisps to which they provide a good alternative.

    Next: Meat and fish.

    Home page for the cooking channel.

  • Working with raw

    In my previous article, I looked at the kind of ingredients that would be found in most kitchens. In this article, I want to consider vegetables and how we can do more with less. Health experts tell us that our diets should contain ‘five a day’ by which I assume that means five portions of either fresh vegetables or pieces of fruit. In this article, I want to look at ways in which we can obtain, store and use fresh vegetables and to make better use of our equipment at home to ensure that we never run out of basic essentials.

    Fresh Vegetables

    Some vegetables are best purchased frozen. Peas offer the best example. Potatoes might also be bought frozen and in certain cases this is a convenient way way to get them. Potatoes are best bought raw. They can be cooked in a variety of ways: boiled, roasted, fried … there are so many ways in which they can be added to our cooked dishes. Peas are not generally a problem since bags of frozen peas are widely available at nearly all stores and supermarkets. Buying peas from the market and shelling them is a time-intensive and laborious procedure and I do not think this would provide any better, or even cheaper, a product than we would get from a bag of frozen peas. On the farm, peas are harvested and frozen within minutes. They are often fresher when frozen than if they were purchased still in their shells. I also keep a bag of sweetcorn in the freezer or will get corn-on-the-cob to boil up as an alternative. Peas and beans are known as ‘pulses.’ They should form part of our daily diet because they contain fibre and other beneficial elements.

    Likewise, raw carrots are widely available and can be boiled for main meals or used in other forms of cooking and even in baking cakes. They can be used to make soup. They are invariably used along with other vegetables in stews and casseroles. Most peas, beans and root vegetables can be cut up and frozen for later use. Other vegetables that might lend themselves to the cook/freeze method are parsnips, sweet potatoes and onions. Most meals should have some freshly cooked vegetables or those taken from the freezer. Menus today assume that a main plate of food contains meat or fish and some vegetables. Of course, not all readers will eat meat or even fish. There are alternative sources of protein that are not derived from animals, birds or fish.

    Knives

    One final thought and that is to do with knives. Food preparation (with raw materials) requires a lot of cutting, slicing and chopping. To do this well, it is necessary to have good knives. I suggest you have one big knife for cutting up large items (either meat or vegetables) and one smaller knife for dicing small items. I also have a serrated bread knife which I use for slicing uncut loaves. Other than that I have some small kitchen knives which are useful for a variety of preparation tasks. But, the bottom line is two knives.

    Chips

    I love chips. I was brought up on them. Many food ‘experts’ regard them as being unhealthy. I disagree. But with some provisos. There are good ways to fry chips and there are bad ways. Take oven chips, for example. My experience with oven chips had largely been unsatisfactory. Too often they come out still white. Deep-fried chips should be brown all over. Perhaps I cannot get my oven hot enough. My deep-fat fryer is no problem; it has a wire basket that can be cleaned and ready for its next use.

    Which Potatoes?

    Which potatoes make the best chips? The best potatoes for making chips are Maris Piper. I have seen that on foody websites many times. I agree because this particular type of potato has always given me the best results. They are not always easy to get from some supermarkets. They tend to be more expensive than the more commonly available whites or reds (russets or Desiree.) Some sources say that the King Edward is also suitable for chips. These days, people who shop at supermarkets often only see ‘potatoes’ without there being any description of the kind of vegetables they are. Certain kinds of potatoes are not good for frying. If you like chunky chips (as I do) it is necessary to select those that are large enough. Those with a high starch content tend to give the best results. Desiree is said to make good chips. Whereas the Jersey Royal is waxy and more suited to boiling. Maris Piper potatoes are also said to be good for roasting. In my view, the best way to cook chips is in a deep-fat fryer. That is my preferred choice. Not of course using ‘fat’. I use vegetable oil, although sunflower oil is also acceptable. I use a pan with a basket; having tried electrical deep-fat fryers, I found them very difficult to clean and they soon became encrusted with solidified fat. The simpler pan used on the hob is much easier to keep clean. That is what my mother used all those years ago when I was a boy.

    Large potatoes are often available only in bags; in my case, that is too many. I prefer to buy them two or three at a time. These days, I peel them and slice them and put them in the freezer, in single portions – just enough in the bag for one serving. Before chips can be frozen, they must first be parboiled for a few minutes.

    Healthy or Not?

    Are chips healthy, or not? I sense that any answer to this question will be hotly contested. Firstly, the value of chips, like any other food, depends on how often they are eaten. If you are one of those people who has chips with everything, then yes, they might be unhealthy. Me, I have chips once a week. This makes having chips with a meal, more of a treat than a staple. In the old days, we always used to put salt and vinegar on chips; nowadays it is more likely to be only vinegar. Sometimes, only tomato ketchup.

    Next: Cooking Vegetables.

    Home page for the food channel.